Sales of eyebrow makeup are leading the overall growth in total U.S. prestige eye makeup for the 12 months ended March 2014, reports The NPD Group, Inc., a global information company. The category showed a 28% sales spike, a figure that’s in sharp contrast to the total U.S. prestige makeup market’s 3% growth during the same time period.

Sales of eyebrow products have increased by double digits over the past three years, and now represent $122 million or 11% of total U.S. prestige eye makeup sales. However, less than 80% of prestige retail stores are currently selling brow makeup.

The trend toward defined eyes continues to fuel prestige eye makeup sales nationwide,” said Karen Grant, Vice President and Global Beauty Industry Analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “Further investigation into NPD’s Geo-Level information uncovers regional opportunities for increased distribution and growth in brow makeup, particularly in southern markets within the U.S.”

While the West is the largest region in terms of U.S. prestige eyebrow makeup with 33% of sales, there is potential for additional growth in the South (the second largest market with 31% of sales) where just 70% of prestige stores are selling brow makeup products. In addition, the southern region, which accounts for nearly one-third of all U.S. prestige eyebrow makeup sales is not performing as strongly when compared to the total market.

The Northeast accounts for 22% of sales, followed by Central U.S., with 14% of sales. Among the top 10 cities in the U.S. selling prestige eyebrow makeup, Houston is an area of opportunity for the industry. Just 57% of Houston stores sold prestige brow makeup in the 12 months ended March 2014. These stores experienced 23% growth in dollar sales due in part to a 5 percentage point increase in the number of stores selling prestige eyebrow makeup.

“It is becoming increasingly critical to understand the winning brands and products at a local level, and Houston is a good example of the potential opportunity of increased product distribution,” Karen said. “In the eyebrow market, for example, while MAC and Clinique are among the top sellers, niche brand Anastasia Cosmetics ranks number one in three of the four U.S. regions, and Benefit Cosmetics that ranks among the top three brands in the West. Despite differing geographic market dynamics, the right brand distribution will help influence purchase behavior, and ultimately drive sales.”